"Wish I could go tomorrow"

Surfers have always fascinated me. I've watched their too tan bodies from the shore on numerous occasions. It's amazing to me that one wouldn't get a bit frustrated trying to catch a wave after being wiped out time and time again into the rumbling ocean. It seems like a lot of work for such a short lived rush. I just can't imagine working so hard for something that lasts sometimes less than a minute.

It's even more amazing as I sit over my coffee and watch the story of a young teenager in neon board shorts telling the story of the terror he felt as a shark sunk his razor sharp teeth into his leg. It gives me chills to even try to imagine how it must feel to be in the ocean and know that a shark has chosen your leg for an afternoon snack. I'm certain it would keep me from trying to catch any more waves in the future. However, this young man had the same response as many before him in the same situation. "I'm definitely going to surf in the future, wish I could go tomorrow."

It's always shocking for us to hear stories of someone suffering from a great injury and their response is that they can't wait to put themselves back in the same situation again. I thought of this young man as I ran on my 11 week post surgery foot this morning for just the second time after recovering from surgery. It was a little easier to take off today than it was that very first time. I think we always have a fear of things healing like they are supposed to or even of re-injuring ourselves when we get back out there for the first few times. However, the love of the rush rather it be surfing or running or even falling from the sky a zillion feet in the air is usually greater than the fear of the risk, so we find ourselves back out there hoping for the best outcome.

I usually hang out on the shore when I'm at the ocean. I love the sound of the sea, the smell of the salt and sunscreen that lingers in the air as I drag my feet on the edge of the sandy shore. I must admit though, sometimes I do look out beyond that endless blue ocean and wonder what it would be like to feel the water under my feet and the waves slapping my back. I smile as I see them picking up their boards and making their way up and down, setting and resetting the perfect position to catch the perfect wave. I move a little closer until I can feel the water sinking my feet into the sand. I can't swim so I run as I smell the ocean breeze in the wind against my face. I don't even put on shoes but just pitter~patter in the soft sand beneath my feet; mile after painless mile. I start to understand more why the answer is always, "wish I could go tomorrow". As  
I finish and grab my towel and a cold bottle of water; I can't help but have the same response. I sure hope I can do this again tomorrow.
Life is short my friends, do what you love <3 p="">